Thursday, March 29, 2007

Unharried Traveling

Sunday, March 25, 2007

Favorite Pic from Budapest

Photoessay 2: Tulips and Windmills

It seems as though everyone I know has already been to Holland. They all took the I'm-20-and-want-to-partake-of-Holland's-liberal-laws trip. When I was 20, I took the I-want-to-commune-with-the-Earth-so-I'll-work-on-a-kibbutz-and-
get-stuck-in-a-warzone adventure. Maybe I should have come to Holland instead.

This trip was a first for me and I had a totally legit reason to go... visiting a friend who, as mentioned before, took care of me like a full time job and made the whole 4 days a joy.

See CS and me here with a windmill, as the title of the post implied. Could you have created a more picturesque Dutch background, complete with bike?




Bikes are ubiquitous in this city. Yep, I'm stunned by how many are parked outside Leiden Central Station. But it was a little trippy to visit somewhere so darn flat. I wonder what that kind of flatness does to a personality after a while. Upon departure I had the distinct urge to climb a mountain.




See the canals below of Leiden. This is the city where Rembrandt was born and there is only one word to describe it: lovely.



The second day we went into Amsterdam. That city was bustling with energy. These folks are chilling out with the largest chess board I've ever seen.



There was a busy flower market with, you guessed it, tulips. But I'm not gonna lie. I liked these multicolored cacti better.




We also visited the Portuguese synagogue in Amsterdam. Fabulous. Still lit with wax candles. Check out the candelabras in the pic. A really interesting mix of stone and deep colored wood.




Of course. Gnomes. These are for you, JH. *wink*



Back in Leiden we checked out the Botanical Garden. My favorites were the carnivorous plants. This one seems to say, "Feed Me Seymour," even though I know that one was technically a venus fly trap, right?



And finally we cruised out to the coast to a city near Den Haag (can't remember the town's name) where we saw some exceptional sculpture.


A fabu time! Thanks to my hosts: C and D!

Monday, March 19, 2007

Feeling Pest(y)

Yes, I'm at an internet cafe on the Pest side of Budapest, thinking about what it means to have an ancestral link to a place that you know nothing about... I'm half Budapesty, and was brought up with the knowledge that I was a "strong Hungarian woman," but don't really know what that means and frankly, I'm having a hard time seeing a little bit of myself in this place.

When we arrived yesterday, we got a tour of Budapest from our tourguide, Agi, who delivers history with a leftist, Jewish, snarky twist. Yea, I like 'er. She introduced us to one of the themes of the trip, which is the kind of fatalism that permeates this people who only won one major battle in the last .... recorded history. And yet, there's also a strong sense of tribal pride in the magyar people and their traditions. Very hard to reconcile.

I was also immediately struck with how fantastically beautiful this city is. I don't know if I have ever seen a skyline that made me gasp as this one did with its castles, churches and government buildings that carry diverse styles and pastel colors. But there is also something asleep or dormant here that I haven't quite been able to uncover.

And then there are the Jews. I don't know when my family left Budapest (thinking around the turn of the century, even my Grandma Mae was a born US citizen), but this was a place that had a reputation for real religious tolerance. Prior to the Jewish laws enacted after WW1, the Jews here were more Hungarian than any other competing identity. And now, after half of the community was massacred in WW2 and so many since then have left, the Jews are still trying to figure out who they are. We've been told "Yes, there's Anti-semitism." "No, not much." "Yes, it has significant political ramifications." "No, it is all an illusion."

There is a lot to sort through here.

Oh yea, prior to arriving, I spent 4 days in Holland, playing with CS and her man. Yeehaw, do they know how to treat guests... couldn't have had better service at the Four Seasons. Can we say: fresh baked bread, first rate tourguiding tailored to my desires, stimulating conversation and cheese? The trip was just long enough to let me know that I'd like to come back for a more serious study.

Pics when I return to Jtown. I promise.

Tuesday, March 13, 2007

I'm off. Again.

Today I received two surprise phone calls. One from an old college friend who was visiting Israel with his fiance and did I have time to haul out to French Hill to say hi? The other was from one of my favorite profs in college and thesis advisor who also happened to have a few hours out on Mt. Scopus for me, did I want to hike up there and chat?

Of course, I wanted to see them both, so amidst preparing for my week in Europe I did some reminiscing with my near and dear.

It is a really special time when that professor who has taught you so much, turns around and asks you for advice regarding something they are working on. Yowzas!

And the phone interview with this school, which was scheduled for tonight was canceled at the last minute on their end, so I have to find time to chat with them while I am away.

All is right in Denmark. If you are in Amsterdam or Budapest, give a ring. Many more photos and adventures to come!

Monday, March 12, 2007

Pics and Other Life Decisions

My lack o posting has nothing to do with a lack of things to report... the opposite: I'm so overloaded it has been tough finding time to put my thoughts out there in cyberbytes. MI, DC and JH are all gone, but I'm pretty confident that I gave them as good a tour as I could muster. Lesson to self: tourguiding is not in my future, despite how much I loved having my guests. I selected some of the least incriminating photos to share from the adventure. See below for the visuals.


In the meantime, here's the quick bullet list on my life. Sorry that I don't have much time for an indepth analysis but hopefully this is better than nothing.

  • While my bro and I lounged in the livingroom, I checked email only to hear that I was also accepted to this PhD program. I'm not gonna lie, it feels good to have options, but it also opens the real can of worms... what exactly do I want to do with the rest of my life and where do I want to do it? This question will become more real once I receive the financial offer and am able to rationally compare places.
  • I attended two days of classes devoted exclusively to Pesach prep: logistics of kashering, spiritual preparation and hagadah explication. Oy! I am both excited beyond belief and terrified of the hosting my parents for the first time in my life.
  • Oh yea, my parents are coming the day I get back from Hungary.
  • Oh yea, I'm going to Amsterdam to hang out with CS and then on to Hungary for a dorot seminar. No one is complaining about this life that I am leading here in Israel. Hopefully I will have a moment to post from Europe about the seminar and travels.
See the pics below:

PURIM FESTIVICATION (as promised)







MIs at the Mediterranean



The gang at Yam Kinneret (yes, I like water, get over it)


Thursday, March 08, 2007

Something About.... The North????

Nearly 700 kilometers covered in two days and boy are my arms tired. Actually, the truth is that I didn't drive a lick of those 700 kms. *Baruch Hashem*

YC, upon hearing my disjointed and disorganized plans to drive MI, DC and JH through the Israeli "countryside," took 2 days off work and lead us through gorgeous northern Israel. The Kinneret, the entire Golan Heights, sunsets at Rosh Hanikra, humus in Acco and Ceasaria were highlights. But most of all, we were treated to the insider knowledge of Israel from a man who loves this place more than anything.

I am always astounded at the vastness of this little overcrowded country. There are still tracts of land that look like Jesus could have been herding sheep there weeks ago; there are places that appear to be entirely unsettled. Granted we were up in the Golan Heights, which to some people is considered the last vastness of Israel, but it was grand and I was delighted to see all the candy for the eyes.

Also, we stayed at my madrich's kibbutz in the simple, but comfortable guesthouses after being treated to a lovely meal in his home.

I feel so lucky to be surrounded by all these wonderfully hospitable people. I hope that I can only learn to be as welcoming and gracious as they are.

Monday, March 05, 2007

Something About Blood...

And no, this post won't be yucky, or gory. I'm talking about Blood relatives, the ones that share chromosomes and remember that annoying 6th grade Hebrew teacher and share your mannerisms and laugh at the family jokes. Yea, my little bro is in town and we're living it up.

MI, the younger, arrived just prior to shabbat, but with enough time to stop in Abu Gosh for some humus and salatim to herald in his journey to Israel. Shabbat dinner was hosted by my fellow doroti, SM, where we welcomed the shabbat bride with song and WAY TOO MUCH food. Reminder to self: must ask SM for curry, sweet potato thing recipe. Yum. MI and DC enjoyed the day despite being overtired.

Shabbat day we ventured directly to the center of the world, the old city in Jtown, where we beheld the Kotel in glorious sunshine, meandered through the Arab shuk, and happened upon the Church of the Holy Sepulcher during some sort of service. Lots of incense and languages I couldn't understand. A man in a pink hat. Different colored robes for different monks. Wandering out of the old city to the east, we checked out Jerusalem from the other side, Arabic signs and all, and then walked around the outside walls back to my place.

Within a few hours we were making our way to Tel Aviv for Purim festivities which included shiny cowboy hats, gold and silver capes and some dominatrix gear for me. No need to say more: a good time was had by all.

We woke in TA and made our way toward the beach seeing all the children in costumes of all sorts. A high percentage of American Indians and super heroes. Tel Aviv touring meant: Shuk HaCarmel, Sheinkin Street, the Tayelet, feet in the Mediterranean (yes, gorgeous and sunny), shwarma for MI, baklawa in Old Yafo, and even an archaeological museum. We topped off the day at the height of the Azrieli Tower, the tallest building in the Middle East, to get a view.

The next morning we fought past our continued drowsiness and returned to Jtown (only to be stuck on a sherut with a Jews for Jesus evangelist the whole way, ugh) for megillah reading at Pardes. I made a point of wanting to attend this reading in solidarity with a friend whose conversion to Judaism was called into question because she had a woman (shock of all shock) on her beit din. She read beautifully!

Now MI and DC are off to the Israel Museum and I'm having my first bit of alone time in over a week. Laundry and a nap are high on the list of priorities... after this post. Hag Purim Sameach!

We're off to the north tomorrow which will include an overnight with my Dorot madrich at Kibbutz Tuval. Stay tuned for more in the next few days.
Ciao.