Where to begin? Somewhere near the beginning!

I feel like so much has happened since I posted last week, that it may be appropriate to just bullet my activities (for those who are paying attention) and then get into some of the more interesting nitty gritty... stuff I'm learning, issues I'm dealing with, that kind of thing.

• First, the dash key on computer isn't working... any thoughts?
• I moved out of Little House in Baka, where I was staying, and am officially couch hopping until Fri morning when I move into my place. Right now I am staying with an acquaintance of a friend of my Dorot advisor. I've been able to help her out with some household stuff because she's a single mom and can use an extra pair of eyes and hands.
  
• YES!! I signed my lease and I HAVE AN APARTMENT. The address is XX Keren Hayisod, near the corner of Agron. [Email me directly for the number of the building and apartment number.] As many of you know, this is smack dab in the middle if Jerusalem and gives me an easy walk or certainly bus access to EVERYWHERE. Woohoo! Israeli roommates are included who I will surely blog about more later.
• I have had 3 different orientations at different learning institutions: Pardes, Yakar and the Conservative Yeshiva. I'm now in the heavy shopping period where I figure out where I want to do my Jewish studies. I am also looking into Simchat Shlomo and a few other places.
  
• I met with the head of research of the Arava Institute, and there's a 9 out of 10 chance that I will be doing my primary volunteering there.
• (I just realized that I was still wearing my sunglasses on my head while I wear my prescription glasses on my face. Very slick... very slick.

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Word of the day: Actually these are a series of words that I learned while going over my lease with the Dorot lawyer yesterday:

• Chozeh: contract
• Hes'kem: agreement
• Shchirut: lease

There were some issues with the lease... apparently in its original form I was responsible for all damage to the apartment including stuff that wasn't my fault like plumbing and electricity. So I had to ask the landlord to insert language saying that I was only responsible for problems that I caused excluding normal wear and tear. The landlord accepted it without a hitch. Yes, this does mean that I concluded my first formal legal negotiation for something entirely in Hebrew. Sometimes, you have to congratulate yourself for the little things.

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Some stuff on my mind:
Right now I am having a hard time conceptualizing being able to do all the different things that I want to do. Dorot requires that I study Hebrew, and do serious Jewish study and have a rigorous internship that immerses you in Israeli life. Scheduling is going to be rough and being able to be fully present (in mind, as well as body) I think will be tough. Plus, I want to study Arabic, do bellydancing and have a social life as well. I can see why many past fellows ended up selecting a priority, putting the internship over Jewish studies or vice versa. It is just too much to try and do all at once.

Another discussion that is brewing amongst the fellows is about the study of Talmud, but perhaps can apply to all types of Jewish study. The way Pardes and the Conservative Yeshiva think about Talmud study is in levels. If you have little or no experience with Talmud, you start in Aleph, and if you have more you can progress to Bet, Gimmel or Daled. The implication, of course, is that it is along a continuum. You want to move forward from Aleph to Daled and beyond. There is something higher, more sophisticated about the more advanced levels. Both Pardes and the CY discussed "skills" that are developed by studying and they were looking to group people based on their "skill" level. Notable, the Dorot Fellow with the MOST Jewish study background (15 years of Yeshiva schooling) is totally opposed to this concept. He subscribes to a precept that was presented to the fellows by the Head of Alma, called kri'ah ye'chey'fah meaning "barefoot learning". Ruth Calderone believes that everyone can bring their entire body of life experience to the learning of Talmud and there is no higher and lower levels of learning based on experience. People with lots of experience in Talmud learn tremendous amounts from those with just different life experience. So, given that idea, does it make sense to segregate classes based on "skills".

I do see if a class is going to be conducted entirely in Hebrew, that it makes most sense for those who are in it should be able to understand... than the "skills" you are talking about are just language acquisition.

Anyway, I am conflicted. Yes, I have learned a considerable amount from being in classes with people who are at a "higher" level than I am but I'm not sure that it always works the other way. Sometimes, it might mean that the shiur is spent explaining concepts that some people are already very farmiliar with. Anyway, if you understood this at all, it is food for thought.

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OK. So long for now. And please call me. I'll turn my phone off if I don't want to talk, so don't worry about calling at weird times. When I move into my place, I'll probably get vonage with an American phone number so y'all won't have any excuses.

Post Shabbat, Word O the Day, Live it Up in TA

Well, my favoritest younger brother, who shall remain nameless, requested that I give a Hebrew word of the day. No promises that I will get to this everyday, but I can start with some post shabbat blogging word o the day. Here are some words that have been particularly helpful for me this week:

• sal'a'teem: This is the plural of the word "salat" like salad, but meaning anything from humus, techina to a more proper salad of cucumbers and tomatoes or eggplant. Basically a staple in every Israeli meal.
• mo'da'ah: This is an advertisement. Very helpful when you are responding to ads on the web for apartments, if you know what I mean.
• me'cha'pes, me'cha'peset: This is the male and female verbs meaning "looking for". As in, "I'm looking for my hotel" or "I'm looking for the bathroom" or "I'm looking for the darn internet connection that this coffee shop is supposed to provide." Yea, a really helpful one.
• b'dicha: means joke. Just a good word to have around.
  

I can't think of any more at the moment, but feel free to send requests for words my way.

What about word associations? As many of you know, in Hebrew, every word can be reduced to its three letter root, and every derivative of that root maintains some aspect of the meaning. One word association that I just stumbled upon which is troubling beyond is - the word for "kiss" is "NeSHiKah" with N, SH, and K as the root letters. Another common word with those root letters is NeSHeK meaning weapon. Woah. A sermon to be written with that one!

Thursday night, some of us Jerusalemites went to celebrate a birthday with the Tel Avivians on the beach. Good times had by all. What could be better than sipping drinks by the Meditteranean on a muggy evening in August?! We ended up walking over an hour back to the hostel where our friends were staying, which would have been fine had it not been FOUR O'CLOCK in the MORNING. Yeppers, Tel Aviv is pretty quiet at that hour.

When I got back to J-town Friday around noon, I hit up Machaneh Yehudah, one of the most amazing markets anywhere for some eggplant salads, humus, (salatim) wine and other shabbat goodies.

Shabbat was lovely and relaxed. I ran into a friend from SF at schul, and had meals at two fellows' homes. Now, it is motzei shabbat and I'll go grab some grub and pack my things. I have to move out Monday morning and I can't move into my new place until Thurs... so couch hopping I will go.
Shavua Tov! Blessings for a good week...

Business as Usual, Apt Search Success?

Update on Security ALERT -
Our security alert was dismissed nearly as fast as it was put into place, then revived and dismissed again. Hard to know what to think about all that. I did stay away from public transit yesterday which means that I've been putting serious mileage on my new keens. Woohoo... the best purchase for this country!!

And without counting my chickens before they hatch: I think I found an apartment. I don't want to spread the details until all the contracts are signed, all the i's dotted, and t's crossed, but let's just say that if this goes through, there will be plenty of space for all y'all to come and visit. Yeehaw!

On things I'm thinking about these days:
I was engaged in an interesting discussion yesterday about vegetarianism, consumption, animal rights and other such light topics. We were discussing why meat is such a central ingredient in Israeli food. In fact, despite the ever-present graphiti saying "Basar = Retzach" (Meat is murder) on the Israeli street, it is still considered weird to be tzimchoni vegetarian. This is a common piece of graphiti.

Interestingly, Jews were, for a very long time, basically vegetarian because they couldn't afford to be anything else. Eli, the Dorot fellow with a penchant for Yiddish culture taught us the potato song (see the nascent Dorot blog for the words), which makes clear that poor Jews of the Pale were lucky to get potato kugel and there certainly wasn't any meat to be had.

The attitude today is actually a responce to those fairly recent times of poverty. We eat meat, dafka because we can. We are not poor anymore and it is all the most important to flex our consumptive power almost to make up for those times.

But of course, eating meat today does not satisfy our hungry ancestors. Nor does it rectify past injustices. And in fact, eating large quantities of meat today has a very different impact than going out to your farm and slaughtering a chicken for shabbat. Truly, they are different experiences.

No, I'm not becoming one of those vegetarians, where I preach to everyone. I'm not even a veggie!! I just think it is important to decouple the experience and understand why things are as they are.

I think this thinking has broader implications for other aspects of Zionism too, but I don't really have time to get into it all now. Take care everyone.

Realities... ugh

The latest on the apartment hunt: It's going. I feel like an idiot trying to call people and speak in Hebrew. Oftentimes, people will just start speaking in English, but not always the case.

Two days ago I had my first experience with a "suspicious package". I was walking along Ben Yehudah Street and the mishtara (police) had blocked off an entire section of one of the busiest areas of downtown Jerusalem. Onlookers clogged the ends of the street while the police, clad in full swat team gear, picked up the suspicious item and *probably* detonated it. This is certainly one of the realities of living here.

Today I received word that there was a "security warning" so I'm staying mostly off the street, off the buses, and away from crowded areas. Ugh... Another reality check.

My second visitor came to chill with me last night - props to NORA!! The moment we passed the security barrier to get to the Kotel, all the power went out (yea, freaky). Nora and I froze for a moment, but no one else seemed to care. We said that if the power didn't resume in 120 seconds, we were out of there. Thankfully, just before the clocked hit 115 secs, the power flicked back on. No one else seemed to care about the darkness.
Then, we were running through the Old City desperately looking for felafel (she's vegan). No I don't recommend that after 9pm. Finally, after at least an hour of looking and being completely lost, we hailed a cab and said, "Felafel and step on it!" Thank god for the monit driver.

Confessions, Organizing My Thoughts and A Little More News

My first shabbat in Jerusalem (this time around) has officially ended and I'm ready to return to my computer to hammer out some thoughts.

First - the nitty gritty.

My orientation for Dorot formally ends tomorrow with a nuts and bolts session on how to open an Israeli bank account, how to get a cell phone and the details on anything else I can remember to ask. There will be former fellows around to answer these questions. From Monday through next Sunday my goal in life will be to find an apartment. People have suggested that I look into the Nachlaot neighborhood, which is near Machaneh Yehuda (one of the most amazing markets anywhere) and has both an old religious community and younger, secular folks as well. We'll see how all that works out.
Everything has been really tremendous here. The staff of Dorot are particularly wonderful, sensitive folks and I'm constantly learning from my fellow fellows (ha!). I can't say enough how priveledged I feel to be part of this program.

Second - what the heck have I been up to?
Well, I'll start with the confession: It has probably been close to 15 years (or more) since I held a paintbrush - and no, that does not count the eye makeup brush that I use every day. I didn't have a particularly good arts education and it was never anything that I had an aptitude or interest in. On Thurs, that all changed. The program included a session with a woman who works on artistic renderings of Midrash (that is, stories that fill in the gaps of Jewish tradition to explain and add texture to the traditional text). So, she covered the entire floor of a classroom in butcher paper and each of us painted/constructed artistic renderings of our Jewish identities. I spent a lot of time trying to depict the intersection and conflict between scientific/rational thought and mythic/God-centered/miracle-oriented thinking. I attempted to encapsulate my sense of wonder at the natural world and also tried to bring into the image the importance of community, tradition and shabbat. Next, we went around the room and commented on eachothers' renderings. Then, we returned to our original works and responded to the comments left on our work. Finally, we were supposed to choose someone's work that impacted us negatively and change it. What a phenomenal activity!! People did some really wonderful work and we were able to talk about our own identities and have an artistic dialogue with one another about them. Pretty cool... (No mom, I still don't really have any artistic talent... I'm still your rainbows child.)

Earlier in the day (Thurs), we had another instructive seminar with two Jewish educators. One, Mike _____ was talking about the reasons that people engage in Jewish study. He broke it down this way:
- To achieve the aha moment: Jewish study can allow people a deeper understanding of the world, Godliness, human interaction, etc. You do it in order to say, "Oh, I see".
- To further one's participation: People study Jewishly in order to feel more confident in Jewish practice, whether communal or individual. The study brings more meaning to the ritual.
- To achieve power: With Jewish study, and possibly all study, comes a kind of moral authority. You can have a real voice in the community's decisionmaking if you come from an informed place.
- To become part of the educated public: There was a philosopher that Mike quoted who talked about the "educated public" which means people who are able to receive teaching and engage in text, but are not necessarily the community's elite teachers. There is still a base of knowledge that is necessary to even begin the process of learning more. In the Jewish context, this is a fairly high bar.

Mike's framework really spoke to me. I had a meeting the night before with my advisor about what I wanted to accomplish on the fellowship and I didn't have the words to adequately describe what I wanted out of the year in terms of Jewish study. But now I think I understand that I'm looking for - the skills to put me securely in the educated public. Of course, I want to learn more about ritual and communal participation, and I'm not going to be mad if I happen upon some aha moments, but that isn't the goal. I am less stressed about my Jewish studies now because I'm not putting so much pressure on this year to learn everything. Rather, I'm trying to look at this year as the first step toward a lifetime of Jewish learning... a year where I have the time to really pick up those necessary skills.

We topped Thurs off with my very first rock concert in the holy land... not a bad day.

Third, um... so it seems as though Israel has violated the ceasefire with Lebanon. Indeed, people are VERY critical of the Israeli government here. People are questioning why Israel went into Lebanon at all when the objective wasn't accomplished (the absolute crushing of hezbollah). This article from the NYT sums things up pretty well. I don't have an opinion on the matter yet. I'm eternally thankful that the cease fire was implemented minutes before I arrived in the country, but I can't help but think that the whole thing was a waste... Oy! such heartbreak....

The NYT is also reporting that coffee is good for you... and particularly good to ward off diabetes. Well, considering that I'm in the highest risk category for Type 1 and Type 2 I should probably drink more coffee. In Israel, people still drink a ton of instant coffee with the most common brand being Nescafe. If you order it in a restaurant, you can just ask for "Nes v'halav" meaning coffee with milk. It is a funny thing, though, because "nes" also means "miracle"... so each morning you can order your daily miracle with milk. Tee hee.

Randomness as it now stands

Here's what I know you all want to know... THE FIGHTING SEEMS TO HAVE CEASED. Strangely enough, I knew A LOT more about what was going on in the north of Israel before I began this program than I know now. There never seems to be enough time to really READ the various sources and consider the ramifications of any given diplomatic/military action.

You would never know milling about in Jerusalem that a war was raging just days/hours ago in this country. Everything seems totally normal here.

One of our advisors' son was in Lebanon and now that he is back in Israel, I know longer know have any personal connections to anyone involved in actual fighting. Perhaps the advisor's son will come to address our community on what it felt like this time around in Lebanon.

I don't have any real insight into what comes next for Israel in this situation. Our group has NOT engaged in a serious discussion of the implications of each move. Frankly, it has started to grate on my nerves that they have tried so hard to keep the realities of Israel from us in order to make us a community. I get it that those future conversations might be more fruitful if there's a base of trust underneath it all. However, I fear that we have begun on an unalterable path developing these overly sensitive avoid-the-real-issues habits that we won't be able to change when the time dictates. Whatever, we'll see.

In other news, I've received a number of emails asking about what happened at Orientation week. I have not been vague intentionally, but rather am still processing some of my thoughts on the few days I spend at Deer Run.

First and foremost, this group of individuals came together as a united force - even, dare I say, became a community. At times it felt a bit forced, but people will force themselves into a healthy community orientation when they know that they will be REQUIRED to spend significant time working together over the coming year.
Some physical team building activities that we engaged in were - ropes courses (where we had to figure out how to bring the entire team around a triangular shaped ropes configuration without anyone touching the ground), a ropes spider's web (where we had to devise a strategy to get each member through the web without anyone touching the ropes and without repeating entry spaces), and build a boat (where we actually contructed boats out of cardboard, plastic table cloths and a crapload of duct tape - ours was called the "Le Barge of Zion".)

Other than that, there were a lot of opportunities to share who we were relating to our Jewish journeys or why we were coming to Israel in the first place.

Some interesting interpersonal dynamics arose at that time and have continued to develop. I don't think anyone here would argue that I am the loudest, at times the goofiest, and possibly the most direct speaking member of the group. A fellow said to me yesterday, "You're a lot nerdier than I originally thought." And he meant it in the best way possible, meaning that I didn't come off from the get go as someone terribly brainy but I have proved to have eclectic and nerdy interests over the last few days. (For those in the know, I exposed my interest/obsession with early US Constitutional history and the nerdy Myrrh was revealed.)
There are those in the group that are good share-ers of their personal story and those who are not used to such public declarations of their growth and development. Some folks who probably relate better in the written form and others who speak publically with great ease. In general, the group is full of unique voices.

I am also unused to dealing in such an introspective academic environment. I have summed up my college experience to some folks as me living with folks who were above all learning to "beat the system". And these fellows are working on bettering themselves as leaders and understanding where they fit in the community. "Beating the system" has little to do with the work here. In some sense, the people here have already beat the system and they're getting to work rethinking the system as it stands. Anyway, it has been very interesting and I'm wildly optimistic for its success as a supportive community.

Safe Arrival

I am happy, healthy, tired, jetlagged and generally excited to have arrived in Yerushalayim - that's J-town for all you uninitiated folks.
My flight was uneventful - in the good way - where I actually got a chance to ease into speaking Hebrew by chatting with the sweet old woman sitting next to me.
There is so much to catch you all up on, but alas, it will not happen tonight. Suffice it to say that all is well and I'll be more in touch with you in the coming week.
Shavua Tov...

Hahadashot - And now, the news....

I know it has been just ages since I've been in contact. I fell off the blogger wagon, as they say. But never fear, I've returned and blog I shall do.

News updates on me for those who just want to get down to business.

• I'm heading to Israel tomorrow (Sun) on an Israir flight leaving from JFK, so the next post will definitely be from the holy land (unless I use internet at the airport).
• I'm feeling a little less indignant and a little more cautious/apprehensive about the trip... and I've finally admitted that to my mother who, to her credit, has remained very supportive of me. She let me know that she's more concerned than ever about this choice, but has remained excited for my participation in this fellowship.
• Ari and Eva celebrated their first of two ufrufs in Portland today. It was very hard for me to miss such an important family occaision especially because I actually was in the country, but I just couldn't swing it. Mazal Tov!
• For the past week, I was holed up at Camp Deer Run with the other fellows participating with me on this fellowship. I am wildly impressed with their breadth of interests and accomplishments and most importantly, we have started to become quite close friends. I am not at all afraid that this year will be like years past where Dorot Fellows had a reputation for being truly mean to each other. More on this as it develops.
• Today I saw Esther Woolf (my godmother's mother). She's 94 and in terrific shape. We dined at Jean Georges and I really credit her and Louisie with making me into a lady.
• I'm happy, healthy and ready for this next chapter to start in earnest. Send me emails. I respond, most of the time...

Out of Sight...

... *hopefully not* out of mind.

After a lovely few days on the east coast that included a short stop in New Haven, a sleepover with my best friend from 1st grade who's getting married Labor Day weekend, and some quality time with my brother, his wife and kids, I'm actually starting this darn program today!!!

I am so nervous that I had a dream 2 days ago that I showed with my face painted entirely red with lipstick. And then I was surprised that I was the only one with the painted face. Weird.

I don't know whether I will have internet access over the next few days... they are taking us to some camp for "leadership training" that apparently involves a ropes course.

See ya round the campfire.

Inquiring Minds Want To Know...

.... where I've gone. Well, I'm sitting tight, feeling the heat and trying to stay cool at my bro's apartment on the UWS in NYC. Do you see the forcast?

Yuck....

They have recently redone the living room (which doubles as the den, TV room, dining room, and playhouse) in lovely newly covered furniture. My grandmother's chairs never looked so good.


Rewind a few days to July 29. Shabbat. I head to services in the AM knowing full well that there is an astronomical amount of packing yet to do. Sat afternoon is spent completing the suitcases that will be my only shctuff while I'm in Israel. I put together a winter case that I brought to LA to pick up when I'm there for the wedding. Time is ticking away, and I know that there is early morning (read: 7am) flight for me to catch to Eva's bridal shower. Between sorting through pairs of socks, shoes and deciding which t-shirts to bring, I installed skype on my computer so that I can talk to some or all of you fools for free.

(BREAK FOR SPONSORED PORTION OF THIS BLOG) Go and download skype at skype.com right now.. so that we can talk. It's free and easy... and a goblin will come and eat your children if you don't. (WE NOW RESUME YOUR USUAL BLOGGING.)

At approximately 3am, I just called it quits. Suitcases were packed, room was mostly clean, boxes of random crap were packed, if not brought down to the basement yet.

Two hours later (!!) my alarm went off to go to the airport.

The bridal shower was just lovely. Held in a country club, everyone looked beautiful

After 2 days in LA, chilling with the Baadens (soon-to-be) and the Zacks, I'm here in NY. Absolutely uneventful as of this moment, so I'll sign off. Hope everyone is doing well and let me know when you're on skype so that the chat can continue.